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There's nothing fun about having your travel gear malfunction. Especially when it's your pack and you're in the middle of a long journey. It could have been costly and definitely frustrating. But after two quick emails, Gregory Packs had committed to replacing my bag, bending the company policy of only shipping to the US, and made sure the delivery fit with our schedule. Once again I'm well equipped.

Nepal — Annapurna Circuit — Freaking Awesome

Trek from tea house to tea house. Lodge to lodge. From village to village, Medieval and recent, until you ascend to more than half the height a jumbo jet reaches during long-haul flights — 5416 meters (17,769ft.)

DAY 1 : Besisahar > Khudi > Bhulebhule (840m/2756ft)

The first few days through the foot hills were good fun. We hit the trail, found our stride, and slogged through our only day of rain. We also spent time chatting with other people's guides to get the low down on the hard to reach gems. Gems they obviously didn't want their clients to become interested in. And of course, each day was extremely beautiful.

 

DAY 2 : Bhulebhule > Ngadi > Bahundanda > Ghermu > Syanje > Jagat (1300m/4265ft)

 

DAY 3 : Jagat > Chamje > Tal > Karte > Dharapani (1900m/6234ft)



DAY 4 : Dharapani > Bagarchap > Danagyu > Latamrang > Koto Qupar > Chame (2670m/8760ft)



DAY 5 : Chame > Pisang > Ghyaru (3670/12041ft)

Our breakaway from the main route started halfway through day five. Ambition turned into a 10-hour march that culminated with a switchback ascent of 350m to the ancient stone village of Ghyaru (3670m). The scenery was unreal. And with barely a soul around, we got the prime room in the village, hedged with a 20 foot run of windows. The million dollar view put us face to face with Annapurna II (7937m). We stayed for two nights to recharge and take in the natural gifts. At night we could look up from our bed and gaze at Orion, the Big Dipper, and all the constellations we know nothing about. By 5am, a cold, dim light that seemingly came from nowhere gave the mountains an imposing and eerie presence. Toss in a cackling crow. The only sign of life, strategically perched atop a single barren tree at the village edge. Spoooookey. More than once I peeked back over my shoulder, thinking I smelled smoke and had heard the gravelly voice of Rod Serling in the room.

         

DAY 6 : Ghyaru (3670m/12041ft)
  

DAY 7 : Ghyaru > Ngawal > Mungji > Manang (3540m/11614ft)

Finishing off the high road with another gorgeous day, passing only yak herders and local archers, we rolled into the trekking hub of Manang and went shopping. More Snickers, more peanut butter, and, thankfully, some elastic knee sleeves to relieve the grind of our unconservative pack jobs. Manang's extravagance — a thundering piece of apple crumble and a room with en-suite toilet and solar shower — wooed us into spending the night. It's the type of place you could easily loose a couple of days stuffing your pie hole with fat, flaky pastries worthy of any European town. But we had other plans.



DAY 8 : Manang > Khangsar > Tilicho Base Camp (4150m/13615ft)

The highest lake in the world! Our trip to Tilicho Lake Base Camp came with a number of tense moments. We had to keep close watch on the rocks that tumbled from above in the late afternoon wind. Our traverses across the danger zones were slow and way too calculated, unlike the swift footed movements we employed on the return journey, after seeing Nepalese men navigate the piles of loose sliding stone that masqueraded as a ledge. It was a lesson we were thankful to learn. The camp itself sits at 4150m and is run by a bunch of grumpy men who can put together one tasty dahl baht. Very important. The combined exertion and altitude make it necessary to eat big. At this point I could put back enough rice during one sitting to make a fat kid curl up in Richard Simmons lap.

 

DAY 9 : Tilicho Lake (4920m/16138ft)

The next morning we woke early. The weather cooperated. We went up. The bright blue sky, multiple mountain ridges, and river valley below offered us the most spectacular eye candy to date. We went up. Into the crunchy bowl of snow, flanked by steely blue peaks. We were completely alone. Euphoria reigned. For an entire hour we played. Tilicho Lake, the highlight of our trek, belonged to us.



DAY 10 :Tilicho Base Camp > back over a bunch of mountains > Yak Kharka (4018m/13182ft)

Later we bunked in the same room as a German woman. This kind of altitude can make it hard to breath, and earplugs were useless against her sonic Blitzkrieg. Only with a thick woolly hat, neck guard, and pillow for reinforcements could I dampen her vicious snore. A little groggy we took a "short cut" back to the main trail. It was another 10-hour go with barely a hint of flat. Heather found herself on the wrong side of a stomach bug, so the scenery and effort failed to give the usual high. Although the desolated trail was as good a place as any for urgent breaks. Eventually we made it to Yak Karka and Letdar, two close together acclimatization towns that made for a good, yet ice cold recovery. Nurse Wasiluk was on duty.



DAY 11 : Yak Kharka (4018m13182ft)



DAY 12 : Yak Kharka > Letdar (4200m/13780ft)



DAY 13 : Letdar >Thorung Phedi > Thorung Phedi High Camp (4800m/15748ft)  



DAY 14 : Thorung Phedi High Camp > THORUNG LA PASS (5416m/17769ft) > Muktinath (3800m/12467ft)

The final night before the pass we bunked at Thorung Phedi, High Camp (4800m). A wise decision that trimmed off the most intense hour of our hike to the pass. Like the climb to Tilicho, we couldn't have asked for better weather. Strong legs, easily 50% bigger than at the start, lifted us across the barren Mars like landscape, past numerous false tops, until we stood at the crest of accomplishment. Being on top of the world is magic. Until you have to descend. Joints pounded, one stride after the other, for more than 1600m of pure down.



DAY 15 : Muktinath > Jomsom (2800m/9186ft)

Unfortunately, a semblance of road has encroached up the west side of the loop. And in Muktinath, our first beeping horn in 15 days signaled the true end of our journey. One day later, after sharing our space with automobiles we jumped into a jeep of our own and headed to the chilled lakeside town of Pokhara to celebrate, with meat. We basked in the glow of our physical feat with 10 days of doing absolutely nothing. And while the idolity was deserved, thin air is addictive, and we'll be back. Next time with ropes.