Travelling South America by road will teach you many surprising things. Like, it's a big freaking continent. We finally arrived in Ushuaia — the southern tip — after too many bus hours to count. It was a striking city. Surrounded by jagged peaks and filled with hokey penguin carvings that were obviously left over from the 80's. Not content to simply turn around, we set off to hop a last-minute cruise to Antarctica. Unfortunately one of the ships broke down, spilling passengers over to other ships. It left squat for availability and killed the chances of a real deal. Optimists, we decided the incident was equal to making a small pile of cash and treated ourselves to a fancy dinner before day cruising to a penguin colony. With a responsible limit of 20 people on the island at a time, the penguins were undisturbed. Singing to the heavens, cleaning nests for picky mates, beak slap fighting for the honour of having to clean said nests for their future mates. Waddling, waddling, feeding tiny chicks, and an assortment of x-rated activities. Ahhh penguins.